J.Crew will be acquired by two investment firms for $3 billion, according to a document released moments ago by the preppy-chic retailer. (We first reported on this Monday night–click here for some background.)
This will allow CEO Mickey Drexler and co. to fix what’s wrong with the business–and build on what’s right–without having to deal with public shareholders.
“It is a clear endorsement of J.Crew and of the hard work and commitment of each and every one of our associates,” Drexler said of the agreement. “As I have always said, we are in this for the long term and we do what we do day in and day out so we can deliver the best possible products to our customers.”
(via Fashionista)
The official news is that Italy’s fashion capital Milan opened its arms to mass Americana over the weekend with the grand opening of adjoining Gap and Banana Republic flagships. The big news for us though is the opening hails the launch of an exclusive limited-edition Valentino x Gap collaboration. Don’t get too excited though. The collab is only available in Europe: select Gaps in Rome and Milan, plus Paris’ Colette and London’s Gap flagship and designer emporium Dover Street Market. (via Racked)
Valentino x Gap via Fashionista
Filed under: Market Info, Retail Events | Tags: Beijing, Comme des Garcons, Rei Kawakubi
Looks like Comme des Garcons genius Rei Kawakubo is setting her sights on China…
Is this Dover Street Market 2.0? WWD reports that Rei Kawakubo is set to open a 19,000 square foot multi-brand emporium called I.T. Beijing Market in, um, Beijing, China, on December 29th. The four-story space will stock Comme as well as other labels including Alaia, YSL, Ann Demeulemeester, and A Bathing Ape.
And that’s not the end of CDG’s retail expansion in Asia. Kawakubo plans on opening a 32,000 square foot store called Ginza Komatsu Market in Tokyo next year. WWD reports that “the product mix will be half Comme des Garcons brands, the rest invited and curated by Kawakubo in collaboration with Komatsu.”
A new Comme des Garcons flagship will also bow in Tokyo in January. The brand will open a 4,500 square foot store in the Marunouchi district. Early reports say the location will include a 2,000 square foot branch of Paris’ Rose Bakery. (via Racked)
Filed under: Art/Design, Fashion, Market Info, Retail Events, Stores | Tags: marais, Paris, Restaurants, Retail, Shopping
T Magazine’s The Moment blog had an interesting look at Paris’s Marais district today exploring some of the interesting shops, restaurants, and other sites. Take a look if you have any plans to visit the city of lights anytime in the near future. Definitely a must see for shopping and eating, the retail scene seems to be among the most innovative in the city.
For a long time now, the Haut Marais has attracted indie boutiques and avant-garde designers. More and more, they’re foreign-born. The American modernist Jack Henry made his home at 25, rue Charlot, which is just down the street from Plagg, Barbara Kurdziel’s shop devoted to Scandinavian fashion, which is just down the street from the Korean designer Moon Young Hee’s whimsical atelier. And just around the corner on rue de Vielle du Temple, the New York design collective Surface to Air opened its new flagship featuring edgy-urbane men’s and women’s fashion. Foreign flair is suddenly everywhere, and for a city that’s infamous for resisting change, it’s a welcome infusion.
The latest international arrival is Koko. After years of talking about it, and then a year of red tape and on-the-ground planning, the New Zealand expat Catherine McMahon is opening Paris’s first and only store devoted to Kiwi goods. McMahon was often complimented when she wore clothes designed by her compatriots, but, she says, “I realized not many people know anything about Kiwi fashion.” When her boutique opens on Sept. 17, it will be her mission to familiarize the locals with names like Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester and Trelise Cooper.
The neighborhood’s worldliness isn’t only the result of boutiques and designers. Merce and the Muse delighted French coffee snobs this summer with its in-house brew, which the American owner went all the way to Denmark’s Coffee Collective to learn. And then there’s Mary Quarta — next door to Merce, both a bread-crumb trail from Koko — an Italian who started scooping up divine cones of Nutella and stracciatella gelato this past season. The French will never lose their taste for espresso at zinc counters and macarons at the salon de thé, but global flavors go down easy, too.
Cyrille Weiner The Surface to Air store in Marais.Restaurants try out new menu items all of the time, but for diners who want to try the latest hamburger, latte or whatever new concoction that is being sold at their favorite place, finding a restaurant test location can be like going on a treasure hunt.
Many fast-food restaurants often change the locations where they’re testing new products in order to keep the item a secret or target customers from a specific demographic, said Darren Tristano, executive vice president of Technomic, a food industry consultancy. Restaurant chains also try to find out what consumers would be willing to pay for the new items. There are 14 tiers of pricing in the industry, says Tristano, and companies may want to test a product in all of them — from the priciest market in New York City to the least pricey in Salt Lake City.
Finding New Products Near You
To determine whether a restaurant near you is testing a new product, keep your eyes open for “specials” and other signs that new products are available. Here are some current market tests:
- Coca-Cola started testing the Freestyle 100-drink soda bar, a touchscreen soda fountain offering ten times as many drink offerings as your typical soda fountain, in Orange County, California in 2009. There are now machines in Georgia, Illinois, Texas and Utah. Check out the Coca-Cola’s Freestyle Facebook page to see where the company will be rolling the machines out next.
- Starbucks is currently testing Refreshers (cold drinks made from green coffee) in San Diego for a limited time. Also, its Starbucks Reserve coffee, made from “single-origin” coffee beans, is being sold in test markets in metro areas across the country.
- P.F. Chang’s is testing a new happy hour menu in Kansas City, Mo. If all goes well, the Yum Cha Menu, which includes sushi-style rolls and flatbreads, will also be tested in Scottsdale, Ariz. and other locations.
- If you’ve seen fish tacos everywhere, you haven’t lost your mind. Many restaurants are adding the popular item and Taco Bell will be testing its own fish taco next year in stores nationwide.
- McDonald’s and Burger King are both offering more premium-priced products, hoping to attract diners that are willing to spend a little more. McDonald’s is testing a $5 Smokehouse Deluxe hamburger in Ontario, and Burger King has installed higher-end Whopper Bars at locations in Orlando and Miami, Florida, as well as Memphis and New York.
- Wendy’s is testing Natural Fries with the potato skins still on in several test markets. A manager at a Florida restaurant told Consumerist they’re getting rave reviews.
- California Pizza Kitchen is testing touchscreen menus that let customers pay at the table. El Pollo Loco is also testing self-serve cash registers in Orange County, Calif.
- Chipotle is testing a few things in a handful of locations around the country, including a roasted tomato salsa and a “garden blend” of vegan protein in New York, Washington, D.C., Denver, Sacramento and Los Angeles, says Chris Arnold, a spokesman for the Denver-based chain. Chipotle hasn’t changed its menu much in its 17 years of business. The last major menu change, says Arnold, was the addition of a salad, and a meal in a bowl instead of wrapped in a burrito.
Filed under: Fashion, Market Info, Retail Events | Tags: Charlize Theron, Digital, e-commerce, Gucci, Uniqlo
Donna Karan has just launched e-commerce on donnakaran.com and DKNY.com relaunches after a total overhaul. “”Donna Karan New York and DKNY have always embraced the two sides of New York City—a limousine and a taxi, caviar and pizza,” Karan said in a statement. “This e-commerce site brings you both in one place. More than a place to shop, it’s a
complete brand experience, where commerce meets content with the style and
energy of New York City.” (Racked)
Gucci Goes Virtual: Suzy Menkes discusses the ways Gucci is using technology with Frida Giannini, the label’s creative director. (NYTimes)
http://graphics8.nytimes.com/bcvideo/1.0/iframe/embed.html?videoId=1248069083933&playerType=embed
Uniqlo releases video teasers on YouTube for their new collections featuring Charlize Theron and Orlando Bloom.
Ahh yes… food retail… the prize winning combination of two sources of experience and innovation have joined forces for one of the most impressive new “shops” in the world.
(via Eater) Mario Batali recently described his imported food hall Eataly as a “temple,” as a place where “food is more sacred than commerce.” And while a preview of the place last night revealed there will be a heck of a lot of commerce in this place, he may be right. When it comes down to it, Eataly is nothing short of epic, a giant Slow Food mecca of all things Italy. At its core, it’s a fancy Italian grocery store with individual retail departments offering the best of everything (pastry, bread, a butcher, a fishmonger, pasta, cured meats, cheese, hand-made mozzarella, etc.), some of which are directly connected to their own sit-down restaurants with waiter service.
Check out full details at Eater…
“In a move that will no doubt come as great news to shopaholics, Virgin America has officially launched touch-screen shopping as a new feature on its Red seat-back TVs.
Purchases come with two points towards the airline’s Elevate Frequent Flyer Program for every one dollar spent. The upgraded entertainment platform also adds next generation, enhanced terrain-view Google Maps so you can see the actual topography of the areas over which you’re flying.” (via AOL)
The Carl´s Jr. Foot Long Cheeseburger…
Consumer Reports released their annual customer satisfaction results from American retailers with some surprises at the top of the list…
1. Costco (85)
2. Dillard’s (82)
3. Kohl’s (81)
4. JCPenney (80)
5. Target (79)
6. Sam’s Club (78)
7. Sears (77)
8. Macy’s (77)
9. Meijer (77)
10. Walmart (73)
And below are some profiles of the top scorers… (click here to see the profiles of all top retailers)
COSTCO
Snapshot
414 warehouses in 40 states. $50 yearly fee. Costco has a wide range of goods but not a lot in each category. Private-label Kirkland Signature products are claimed to be at least as good as national brands, and all of Costco’s merchandise comes with a money-back guarantee.
Costco doesn’t accept manufacturers’ coupons but sometimes distributes its own. Instant rebates are fairly common. Customers with an Executive membership ($100) qualify for 2 percent back on purchases, up to a top rebate of $500 per year. (You’d need to spend $2,500 to recoup the extra $50.)
McDonalds has long been the spiritual home for many groups including unhealthy people, children, expatriots (present company included on all three accounts) but as a result of their revised 24hr opening policy in China, many Golden Arches are becoming the real home for certain marginalized people.
“Some Shanghai residents have started to take advantage of 24-hour fast food restaurants like McDonald’s and KFC, which offer uncomfortable yet reliable temporary shelter for people who can’t–or don’t want to–pay rent in the ultra-expensive city. Many of the McRefugees are employed, albeit with underpaying jobs in security, housekeeping, and hospitality. And apparently, restaurant officials are looking the other way. Shanghaiist explains in its translation of a Southern Weekly article:
In response to questions about people sleeping over at McDonalds, a spokesperson named Mr. Lu said the store “doesn’t explicitly allow it, but doesn’t explicitly disallow it.” But for all the stores in the Tianyaoqiao Lu area, KFC has the most serious McRefugee problem. “Because there’s sofas there, [McDonalds] only has hard stools. In the winter, people will even bring their blankets and bedrolls into the restaurant.” (Fast Company)
(image via Webshots)
While many individuals are struggling to compete and make themselves better/leaner/more efficient than everybody else, Fast Company has compiled their 2010 list of people who go against the grain in order to innovate and approach business creatively…
“This year’s 100 Most Creative People offers our own, idiosyncratic perspective on business. The selections reflect the breadth of news ideas and new pursuits at play in our business landscape. From interface designer Yugo Nakamura to HBO Documentary Films president Sheila Nevins to futurist Ray Kurzweil, we can attest that creativity is alive and well in 2010.”
Several Louis Vuitton ads have been banned by the ASA (Advertising Standards Association) due to misleading customers about the craftsmanship involved in creating some bags and wallets…
Louis Vuitton has been ordered to sack two of its latest ads over claims that they mislead customers into believing that the hot handbags are hand-stitched.
One offending advertisement features a Cate Blanchett look-alike sewing the handle of a handbag, with the text, “The seamstress with linen thread and beeswax. A needle, linen thread, beeswax, and infinite patience protect each over-stitch from humidity and the passage of time.”
The other ad shows a woman making a wallet, with the questions, “What secret little gestures do our craftsmen discretely pass on? How do we blend innate skill and inherent prowess?”
The answer, apparently, is by machine. According to the Daily Mail, the Advertising Standards Agency received complaints that the ads were misleading, so it challenged the folks at Louis Vuitton, who confessed that sewing machines were used to make their pricey purses because they made items “more secure and [were] necessary for strength, accuracy, and durability.”
(via Stylelist)
A shiny red dispenser that looks like a soft drinks machine has been installed in the Moscow mayor’s office with more to follow in the country’s parliament. The firm behind the luxury dispenser says 33 such machines have been installed across the Russian capital in government ministries and upscale office blocks.
The machine dispenses tins and glass jars full of red salmon caviar or roe, in varying portion sizes, costing from the equivalent of about £3.50 up to £15. The more sought-after sturgeon caviar – varieties of which have been hunted to the brink of extinction and command a much higher price tag – is not for sale in the machines. But at a time when Russia is still emerging from a deep economic crisis, publicity about the dispensers is likely to anger many.
Russians traditionally love caviar, sieved and slightly salted fish eggs, and spread the cheaper red variety on buttered bread, washing it down with sparkling Soviet ‘champagne’ on special occasions. But the more expensive black variety is too expensive for most Russians and annual sales of wild black caviar are limited to about nine tons each year.
Via Telegraph
BMW held their regularly scheduled company meeting recently where boss Dr. Norbert Reithofer detailed the performance of the German automaker performance over the last year. Aside from the standard financials, he made one interesting comment… that “BMW is the most prestigious brand among Generation Y. Generation Y refers to the young people born between the late 1970s and the year 1994 in the U.S. This consumer group has an annual spending capacity of 200 billion dollars – and the most prestigious brands to this young generation are BMW and Chanel.”
Is this true? As a proud member of Generation Y, I have to say that this may be accurate. Both brands have achieved cult-like status, however, I would venture to say that BMW is more acceessible as a brand than Chanel. Not only because Chanel caters to a female audience (excluding watches and perfumes), but also because the relative price point for a Chanel product is higher compared to its luxury goods counterparts, than BMW. While BMW finds itself competing with brands ranging from Mercedes Benz and Audi to Lexus, Chanel is in a league of its own- perhaps only rivaled in prestige by Hermes and to a lesser extent Louis Vuitton.
What do you think?
Here is the full ranking according to L2 Gen Y Prestige Rankings
The list of brands scoring in the Gen Y Prestige Brand Rankings top 10 (by gender):
| Gen Y Females: | Gen Y Males: | |||
| 1. Chanel | 1. BMW | |||
| 2. Ritz-Carlton | 2. Ferrari | |||
| 3. Four Seasons | 3. Porsche | |||
| 4. Marc Jacobs | 4. Lamborghini | |||
| 5. Cartier | 5. Audi | |||
| 6. BMW | 6. Aston Martin | |||
| 7. Mercedes-Benz | 7. Four Seasons | |||
| 8. W Hotels | 8. Mercedes-Benz | |||
| 9. Prada | 9. Ralph Lauren | |||
| 10. Audi | 10. Ritz-Carlton |
Have you noticed lately how the snacks section of a restaurant menu is getting bigger and bigger? The small-sized portions are apparently the hottest things sizzling up the restaurant industry. They are cheap, don’t leave you feeling stuffed and guilty and are available at hours outside of strict meal times.
A study released in March by food service research firm Technomic shows that many consumers are replacing meals with snacks. “There appears to be growing interest among consumers in more frequent, smaller meals,” said Erik Thoresen, director, product innovation. “Restaurants have taken notice and are working to meet this growing need.” Since 2007, snack items skyrocketed 170%. According to Mintel, a market intelligence firm, it’s a trend that will continue. It’s probably one of the few ways that the restaurant industry can fight the still-painful economy.
“By innovating menus with various snacking options, restaurants can boost sales throughout the day and drive guest traffic during non-peak hours,” said Eric Giandelone, director of food service research at Mintel in a release.
Excerpt from the very interesting talk that Bill Taubman (COO of Taubman Centers of Bloomfield Michigan) at the Luxury Summit conference, held nearly two weeks ago in Las Vegas. (via Luxist)
You said in your Luxury Summit presentation, that the mall is evolving, but with a strong heart. What are the components of this strong heart?
Taubman: One component of the strong heart is understanding that the mall is a social environment, as much as it is a shopping venue. If you look at it this way, the mall is an area where people seek out people, talk, eat and purchase, so another component of the strong heart is the high end shopping experience. The luxury brand becomes the positive, memorable experience. It also becomes part of the consumer mindset and identity. The luxury mall is providing the environment so the brands can become all these things.
How do you see the luxury mall evolving in the next few years?
Taubman: I see the mall evolving into more of an experiential, educational, aesthetically pleasing area than it has been in the past. Of all companies right now, I think the Apple stores provide interesting clues to what the luxury mall physical environments may become in the next number of years. Apple decided they needed a mall environment to properly promote their brand — they could not do it on the web or in big boxes alone. In the Apple stores, you can try their latest products out, there is always someone there to answer questions, in many stores there are video presentations, demonstrations and of course, areas – the Genius Bar in Apple’s case – where more complex questions can be answered.
What we learn from this is how sophisticated the consumers have become, and how multidimensional their expectations, needs and wants have become as well.
Permuto has put together some interesting graphics illustrating the attributes of the most common online shoppers… Turns out if you are in your early-40s, a woman, make about $65,000 a year, and spend around $450 a year online, then the internet has got your number!
Other interesting stats show the breakdown if international ecommerce figures, frequency of online transactions and racial makeup of buyers.
Filed under: Fashion, Market Info, Stores | Tags: cushman, fifth avenue, NYC, rents, Uniqlo
In their bid to take over the world, Uniqlo has signed a lease for the highest rent ever in the history of NYC retail- USD300,000,000 over 15 years!
Uniqlo owner Fast Retailing Co., Japan’s biggest apparel seller, announced the deal today, with broker Cushman & Wakefield Inc. and landlord Crown Acquisitions disclosing the price. The space lies at 666 Fifth Ave. near 53rd Street.
“Uniqlo identified this location as being the one that they were willing to make the biggest bet on,” said C. Bradley Mendelson, the Cushman & Wakefield broker who represented landlords Carlyle Group, Crown Acquisitions and Kushner Cos. “They’re one of the biggest retailers in the world; they’re just small in the U.S.”
The contract shows Fifth Avenue’s appeal even after U.S. consumer purchases fell for two straight years, the first such decline since the 1930s. Fast Retailing entered the Russian market earlier in 2010 and plans to open its largest store in Shanghai next month.
(via Bloomberg)
Filed under: Advertising, Art/Design, Fashion, Market Info | Tags: consumption, Demi Moore, The Joneses
In case you haven´t already seen the trailer or the movie, here is the preview of “The Joneses”… This is the new movie featuring David Duchovny and Demi Moore all about buying, spending and setting trends…
As the potential in China for retailers continues to grow, Levis is making news by introducing a completely new brand to the region. With a lower price point (around $50) and strict Chinese distribution, I expect that this move will convince a lot of other brands to do the same.
From Levis Press:
The denim giant joins Hermès International in the push to develop a brand for China. The luxury firm has taken a majority stake in Shanghai-based Shang Xia, which is creating, manufacturing and will sell a collection of clothing, accessories, furniture and other lifestyle products using Chinese raw materials and artisanal know-how. The first Shang Xia store is to open this year in Shanghai.
Levi Strauss’ goal is to develop the new brand’s store base with an even balance of franchised units and company-owned units. The stores are expected to average about 1,000 square feet, which is similar in size to existing Levi’s stores in China. Shop-in-shops within department stores will showcase the brand, as well.
Like Levi’s other stores in China, the new brand’s shops will offer a “top-to-bottom experience,” Gimbel said, with an array of merchandise for men and women. The denim will feature Levi’s signature five-pocket design, but will have a “distinct style and flair,” he said. “There will still be that Levi Strauss & Co. authentic denim craftsmanship, but it will have its unique identity.”
Filed under: Market Info, Stores | Tags: amazin, Apple, Recession, urban outfitters
While the majority of major retailers have been hit during the recession, Forbes reports that among others Apple, Amazon and Urban Outfitters have not only managed to stay afloat, but to do exceedingly well in recent times!
Apple, which has taken the retail world by storm with its own outlets. Customers regularly crowd into the small, cozy Apple Stores to scoop up Macs and iPods, vaulting Apple to the top of the industry for revenue per square foot. Apple Store sales have nearly doubled over the past three years to $9.6 billion.
Amazon.com continues to roll up higher sales — almost 80 percent growth over the past three years — even though some industry analysts see the company maturing in the U.S. Once little more than an online bookseller, Amazon has become the go-to spot for shoppers looking for convenience and reasonable prices on a wide range of merchandise, including consumer electronics.
The casual dining sector is crowded and struggling, but some chains have carved out distinctive niches and rung up strong sales growth. Chipotle Mexican Grill, Texas Roadhouse and Buffalo Wild Wings have steadily opened outlets while growing revenue 47 percent to 61 percent since 2006. The keys: nice decor, friendly service, consistent food and, of course, low prices. Sounds simple enough, but too many chains trying this model fail to distract customers from the fact that they’re out for a discount meal.
Big corporate giant versus independent small town shop… it is an old story, but one without as much humor as this one. To me, the entire idea of a legal issue with this is ludicrous, but one that has happened nonetheless.
The South Butt was started two year ago by Jimmy Winkelmann of suburban St. Louis, though he’s now a 19-year-old college freshman studying biomedical engineering at the University of Missouri-Columbia. Winkelmann has said he started the business to make money for college.
The company sells products with the tag line, “Never Stop Relaxing,” a parody of The North Face line, “Never Stop Exploring.” A wavelike pattern and the company name appear near the upper right or left shoulder on jackets and shirts, similar to the logo and placement used by The North Face.
The North Face, a San Leandro, Calif.-based division of VF Corp, sued in December. The lawsuit sought unspecified damages and asked the court to prohibit The South Butt from making, marketing and selling its line of fleeces, T-shirts and shorts.
At issue was the question of parody or piracy. The lawsuit claimed The South Butt marketed apparel that “infringes and dilutes The North Face’s famous trademarks and duplicates The North Face’s trade dress in its iconic Denali jacket,” referring to a popular fleece jacket marketed by the company.
“While defendants may try to legitimize their piracy under the banner of parody, their own conduct belies that claim,” the suit said, noting that The South Butt had twice attempted to obtain a U.S. trademark registration.
In a whimsical response Watkins wrote that “the consuming public is well aware of the difference between a face and a butt …”
(via msnbc)
Filed under: Fashion, Market Info, Stores | Tags: Resort Refugees, Shopping, Travel
Our sister site, Resort Refugees has posted a few interesting products available around the world. Check them out here!
Mantri Square, India’s biggest mall, has just opened its doors on Sampige Roade, Malleswaram, in Bangalore this week. Its 1.7 million square feet houses 252 retail stores—including international names Marks & Spencer, Adidas, Nike, Crocs, and Benetton—and employs over 4,600 people. Still, it hardly holds a candle to the world’s largest mall: the South China Mall, which clocks in at 7.1 million square feet!
Filed under: Art/Design, Market Info, Stores | Tags: Design, dwr, furniture, post modern
From Fast Company…
“It’s been a tough few months for modern furniture retailer Design Within Reach. The company, which prides itself on authenticity, was exposed for knocking off famous product designs. What started as a catalog-only business had expanded–too quickly–into the retail world, and costly store space was weighing down on the company. Now, as DWR tries to get itself back on track, it will close store locations of its accessories line, Tools for Living. (New York’s SoHo store is presently still open.)
When CEO Ray Brunner left DWR at the end of last year, John Edelman stepped in as his replacement, encountering a staff that was “hand-shy, like a dog that’s been hit,” due, he said, to his predecessors’ “mean and dictatorial” nature.
In December, Edelman told FastCompany.com about the long road ahead, recognizing that saving the company would take time. His goals included doing “better with fewer” stores and creating a tighter Tools For Living collection, making it available in all DWR studios.
So the closing of Tools for Living stores—which featured an overwhelming selection of everything from $25 Swedish fire starters to $200 wooden monkeys—seems to be keeping in line with his original plan. As the company carries out the process of shutting down locations, “Tools for Living as a category will continue to live on in select DWR Studios and on the Web,” Chris Hope, VP of marketing and creative, tells FastCompany.com. “We’re excited about creating a narrower and more focused assortment.”
Filed under: Fashion, Market Info | Tags: Innovation, J. Crew, Jenna Lyons, Jenna´s Picks, Retail
An interesting perspective and some wise words from J. Crew creative boss, Jenna Lyons:
“We’ve just seen an insatiable appetite for nail polish, so we’re looking at other things we can do for women. Women want candy. Someone else said this: “Ask a woman what her favorite thing in her closet is, and she’ll pick the thing she bought yesterday; ask a man, and he’ll pick the thing he bought 40 years ago.” So for men’s, we’re looking into heritage pieces. One is an old coat factory, and one is another American classic shoemaker. What we’d really like to do, especially for women’s, is a shoe collaboration where we maybe go to someone like Manolo Blahnik or Christian Louboutin. Gap did a great job doing that with Pierre Hardy, I thought. Women’s is just harder. Would I love to sell Chanel bags? Sure. Would they let us? No.”
Our conclusions: men love heritage and women love novelty…?
“McDonald’s fans may be lovin’ it even more this summer if the fast-food chain’s plan to sell sodas for $1 goes through.
Executives from both McDonald’s and the Coca-Cola Co. have been trying to get franchises sweet on the deal at recent regional meetings, according to the Wall Street Journal. Hoping to become the place where people flock to buy beverages, McDonald’s wants to offer sodas of any size for only $1.
The low prices will slash soft-drink profits at Golden Arches restaurants, which rely on soda sales as among their biggest moneymakers.
Though McDonald’s has tried summer dollar-drink promotions in the past, it’s pushing harder for the idea to stick this time around, two franchises told the Journal.”
(via SlashFood)
Superstar retailer, Uniqlo, will make its forray into the Russian market with its first shop in Moscow. With 918 stores already open worldwise, the Atrium shopping center will boast 1,200 sq. meters of space when it opens April 2.
Interestingly, Uniqlo has just introduced its new recycling program in Japan, “which allows Japanese consumers to recycle their unwanted Uniqlo threads at stores from biannually, in March and September, to all year round. The clothes were sent to refugee and IDP camps in Asia and Africa, and disaster victims worldwide. Let’s hope this initiative spreads to the 125 stores dotted around the rest of the world.” (Fast Company)
Filed under: Fashion, Market Info, Retail Events, Stores | Tags: H&M, liberty of london, sonia rykiel, target
Two high-powered retail brand collaborations have been making news around the world the last week…
TARGET X LIBERTY of LONDON
Liberty of London, known for its coveted floral prints and exclusivity in the UK has joined forces with Target for an affordable line of home products. “The collection—reinterpreting Liberty’s limited edition Merci line for spring at a lower price point—plays to both brands’ recent successes with similar collaborations. The upshot, floral-printed apparel for men, women and kids, as well as accessories, bedding, stationery, furniture and bicycles done up in paisleys and other patterns by the centuries-old fabric company, fills the space to the brim. Along with blooming flowers (like daffodils and hydrangeas), props, and build-outs all keeping to the theme too, the shop itself has the dizzyingly gorgeous effect of a classic all-over Liberty print.” (via Coolhunting)
H&M X SONIA RYKIEL
It should be no surprise that this mega-collab between the legendary French fashion house and H&M has literally created violent stampedes around the world…
Well, it has come and gone. The Oscars provided a number of small upsets and some well-deserved prizes. However we here at RR are really interested in the infamous Oscar goodie bags. This is an opportunity for brands, retailers, and wannabes to get an in with some of the most influential individuals in the world (for a minimal cost).
“While the heyday of the Oscar swag bag is over–thanks to an IRS crackdown in 2006–free stuff for celebs is still an indelible part of the awards show season. The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences no longer gives presenters and nominees gifts because of the tax liability for celebrities. (Because, you know, they really can’t afford to pay taxes on free stuff.) However, various PR companies have stepped in, organizing gifting suites for selected attendees.” (via fashionista)
For example, the condolence gift bags–which will be given to the nominees who don’t win in their respective categories–are worth about $85,000. (Update: The company who put together the bags, Distinctive Assets, says that it’s now worth $91,000.) Included in this extravaganza:
- $45,000 African safari trip complete with personal chef at the Lions Sands Game Preserve in South Africa
- $14,500 stay at the Monte Carlo Beach Hotel in Monaco
- $7,000 rustic getaway at the Winvian Luxury Hotel in Connecticut
- gourmet chocolate from Chocolatines by Sweet Endeavours (including Chocolate-dipped bacon)
- personal training sessions and a one-week all inclusive fitness bootcamp
- ideeli.com online shopping cards
- Tiffany cat collar and “designer dog toys”
- WooLoot sport watches
- iFLY indoor skydiving experience
- HGTV “Green Home” mattress by Serta
- The Pig Board
- personal security alarm
- 1 year supply of Altoids Smalls
GBK, a production company that runs high-profile events like the Cannes Film Festival but might be best known for its “celebrity gift bags,” expects Sigourney Weaver, Anne Heche, Tara Reid, and “select cast members from The Jersey Shore” to stop by their celebrity gift lounge. Some of the offerings there, which total about $40,000, are downright bizarre:
- $10,000 Montana luxury ranch experience at The Ranch at Rock Creek
- $8,800 “surgery to clear up red eye” from Boxer Wachler
- $680 Trans D-Tropin, which is rubbed on the forearms and promises to be a “fountain of youth”
- KRAVE electronic cigarettes: each is equal to 500 puffs
- Ksino premium gaming apparel for men and women (we didn’t notice any of this on the AW2010 runways)
- Prevennia, a pill which claims to prevent breast cancer
The whole point of these gifts is to get high-profile celebrities using various products. But we certainly hope we don’t see the adorable Carey Mulligan smoking electronic cigarettes on the red carpet any time soon.
An interesting report has just been published showing the growth of ecommerce numbers in the US for 2009. Online retail sales in the United States could reach $248.7 billion by 2014, growing 60 percent from 2009, according to a study released on Monday. Driven by a 10 percent compound annual growth rate, the projected $248.7 billion is expected to account for 8 percent of total U.S. retail sales within five years, according to Forrester Research, which authored the study.
Online sales, which slowed in the downturn, have still managed to outpace sales at U.S. brick-and-mortar stores. The National Retail Federation expects 2.5 percent growth in total retail sales in 2010, well below the 11 percent online growth rate that Forrester projects — the same as in 2009. With more consumers comfortable with shopping online and retailers investing more in their online operations, the online sector has been steadily growing, driven by robust growth at Amazon.com Inc, the industry leader.
Amazon.com posted 42 percent sales growth in its most recent fourth quarter. Forrester expects consumer electronics and apparel, accessories and footwear to lead the growth, while sales of computer hardware and software will slow. Still, the bulk of total computer product sales is made online. About 52 percent of computer product sales was made online in 2009, compared with 9 percent for apparel and 14 percent for electronics.
Main points to take away is that ecommerce is definitely here to stay, and that with improvements in online shopping technology conusmer savvy and trust is building- especially with mega brands like Amazon. With increased innovation of brands like Gilt, I have an open eye for a broadening of product segments being successful in ecommcerce- specifically luxury products.
Another interesting story about J.Crew and its loyalists…
This shouldn’t come as a shock: It’s a bleak time for retailers. Stores have gone out of business, 70% off sales have become de rigueur and women are shopping in their closets rather than whipping out their credits cards to spend.
But while most retailers have been suffering through this millennium’s version of the Great Depression, J.Crew is having its golden era. First Lady Michelle Obama wore J. Crew while gabbing on Jay Leno’s couch in 2008 and the first daughters donned Crewcuts, a children’s line, to the inauguration. J.Crew’s creative director, Jenna Lyons, has taken on fashion icon status comparable to the likes of superstar designers like Donna Karan and Miuccia Prada (“Jenna’s picks,” which are updated monthly on JCrew.com, often sell out)…
Read the full story from Forbes
As an American living in Germany, J. Crew is the store that I miss most. There is a comfort in the conservative, yet stylish, and superior quality of the products that they sell, and each new brand partnership extends their coolness one degree further (Red Wing Shoes, Rogues Gallery, Belstaff…). My hope is that one day J. Crew will be available in Germany (although the prices will probably become astronomical considering the currency situation at the moment). This article provides a glimmer of hope for this…
“J. Crew is expanding its Internet business into Canada and the U.K.
But after that, the company‘s chairman and CEO Millard “Mickey” Drexler has no desire to get much bigger.
“Bigger is not better — better is always better,” Drexler explained. “It’s not a matter of what’s been, but what will be. We could get bigger, could get faster and open a couple more factory stores, but we don’t want to. There’s no race — the race is to maintain the integrity of the product.”
Drexler was part of panel presentation at the Financo annual merchandising industry chief executive event Monday at New York City’s Harmonie Club on the Upper East Side.
The retail industry is always changing, and now is not an exception, if anything, it’s moving faster, Drexler said. “When I started at Ann Taylor in 1980, August Max was our main competitor. Now, three-quarters of the companies we competed with are not around.”
He continued, “When I started a the Gap, County Seat was our number one competitor. Now, most of the people I work with have never heard of Country Seat.
“The world is always changing — in my opinion, things are changing faster than ever. The past year was a big wake-up call. It’s survival of the fittest. Most retail and fashion companies will not be around in 20 years.”
J. Crew CEO Mickey Drexler. Photo courtesy of J. Crew
(via AOL)
Filed under: Market Info
Thanks to UK-based Cision, for including Retail Refugees in its list of top UK Retail Blogs for 2009!
“Cision provides world-class media intelligence services to executives and individuals employed in a range of disciplines, including public relations, investor relations, marketing, and corporate communications.
Most of the Fortune 500 companies are among our client base, but we also provide media intelligence to small firms, PR agencies, non-profits and governmental organisations. Our broad range of services share one common aim – to help our clients become more efficient, effective, and ultimately more successful in their field of expertise.”
Rumor has it that Prada may fall into the hands of top three luxury conglomerate, Richemont… According to Luxist, “Prada has been struggling with its finances for a while. For a time the brand was flirted with going public but the IPO kept being delayed. Last summer it renegotiated some of its debt in order to have cash available to open more stores. The brand’s debt of 450 million euros was extended to 2012. Prada’s majority owners are Miuccia Prada, the label’s designer and her husband and Prada chief exec Patrizio Bertelli. The NY Post reports that the potential deal would have Prada surrendering around a third of the label to Richemont. Richemont would be taking a passive stake but there is the possibility that the luxury conglomerate could eventually take over the whole brand.
The Prada name continues to have a lot of clout in the luxury fashion world and so the acquisition would be a feather in the cap of Richemont. Richemont is probably also one of the few groups with enough money to pay Prada’s high price. Last summer Italian lenders valued Prada at around $3.8 million. The deal would potentially also give Prada the ability to tap into a larger luxury group and expand into China and other markets more quickly. The only question is how well Prada and Bertelli will fit into working with Richemont. The designer and her executive husband are accustomed to having total control over the brand and the direction it takes but if they can work well with Richemont it could be a formidable alliance.
UPDATE: A Businessweek story includes a quote from a Prada spokesperson denying the NY Post story and saying that Prada is not for sale.”
Filed under: Fashion, Market Info | Tags: christies, Gucci, Suzy Menkes, Vintage
Gucci has announced a collaboration with auction house Christies that will create a protected marketplace and valuation resource for vintage Gucci duds. According to Suzy Menkes from the IHT…
“This new service will provide a trusted venue for transactions of vintage Gucci items, thereby avoiding recourse to uncontrolled auction sites such as eBay,” said Patrizio di Marco, chief executive of Gucci, on Monday.
The “Gucci Collector” site, presented by Christie’s, will offer a virtual-style valuation of vintage items. The site, scheduled to be up and running by the end of the year, will be a dedicated section on http://www.christies.com where people seeking appraisals can upload images of their objects for examination. Christie’s is, like Gucci, part of the luxury group PPR.”
This looks like it will be a great project for this niche. With a heritage like Gucci has, and the reputation that Christies has, the only variable will be the number of people actively seeking and selling the products.
Filed under: Market Info, Stores | Tags: Berlin, dvd, Gallery, image movement, video
What do you get when you cross a high-profile art gallery with a video shop? Image Movement in Berlin. This is shop where you can browse DVDs as if you were in a gallery, browsing works of art- after all, what is video and film if not motion art?…
Aside from Sprüth Magers´ innovative concept behind the base operations and inventory of the shop, they have developed a program whereby allowing the artists, which include Cindy Sherman, John Baldessari, Ed Ruscha, and Andreas Gursky among others, to identify their favorite flics and have them categorized and sold. The result is an inside look into the psyche and mind of some of the great artists of today. Additionally, the shop has an extensive and obsucre list of other titles from video art, music, and design genres.
The first time I visited the shop, it was past closing time but as I saw people filling up the space I entered anyway. What I found was that the shop transforms into an intimate place for screenings some nights, and the stairs that one descends to enter (the shop is half way below ground), double as seating once the screen is pulled down and the movie begins.
The concept of Image Movement plays directly into the idea that luxury moments and true enjoyment can be had from a quiet night at home. While throwing oneself on the sofa with a bowl of popcorn is comfortable, it can also be cultural with the help of shops like Image Movement.
The reigning king of premium coffee establishments- Starbucks, of course- has a new contender with some interesting tricks up its sleeve… Italian giant, Illy, is planning to enter the US market in a big way but rather than starting by spending millions on advertising and marketing, they have chosen to go after the independent coffee giants of the country.
Its art-inspired cups are a favorite of Italiaphiles (a good friend whose husband is Milanese was my introduction to the designer series of tiny espresso cups and saucers). And, after three years of success in Italy, the company has expanded its Artisti del Gusto (Artist of Taste) certification to the U.S., with 28 shops around the country serving Illy coffee, and about 100 more planned by 2012.
Illy’s Artisti del Gusto certification works this way: independent coffee shops with “relevance in their market” are selected to use only Illy coffee beans and agree to do so for a three-year period. Baristas are trained to pull an Illy-quality espresso and given recipes for other drinks common to Artisti del Gusto shops. Illy provides art work, coffee machines, glassware and other branded touches, such as the red Illy umbrellas. Certified coffee shops are periodically monitored for consistency, and the certification can be pulled if the lattes aren’t up to snuff.
Not only is this is a proven way to expand with minimal investment, it’s also a way to increase the reach of a brand, and indoctrinates a much wider audience to the superiority of your coffee beans. In other words, it’s a great way to market your product in grocery stores and online outlets, without a national advertising campaign. A coffee shop on your corner is far better than a billboard, since it’s a place you already trust and whose coffee you are conditioned to love by association. Starbucks sells the majority of its packaged coffee through grocery stores; a whopping two-thirds of its ground and whole bean sales take place outside of its coffee shops.
Personally, I do not think that Starbucks (or McCafé, for that matter) have anything to worry about in terms of volume. However, this positioning will do wonders for Illy´s brand recognition as a premium product and ultimately benefit its grocery store sales.
(via AOL Daily Finance)
Filed under: Market Info | Tags: Central Park, New York, Restaurants, Tavern on the Green
This is a sad day for New York, Central Park, and the restuarant indsutry in general… ”
Less than two years after it announced grand plans for a national expansion, Tavern on the Green, a New York landmark, filed for voluntary Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection Wednesday in U.S. Bankruptcy Court, Southern District of New York.
Tavern on the Green, which has appeared in such films as “Arthur”, “Wall Street” and “New York Stories”, and where generations have celebrated weddings, anniversaries, graduations, was taken over by Warner LeRoy more than 25 years ago. It was once one of the most successful restaurants in the country. A $40 million dollar operation with a staff of 525 and nearly 500,000 patrons annually, the restaurant is known for its prime location in Central Park in addition to its beautiful garden and its elaborate decor of crystal, mirrors and Tiffany ceilings. Its eclectic menu consisted of contemporary American and seasonal fare.”
(via daily finance)
Filed under: Advertising, Art/Design, Fashion, Market Info, Retail Events, Stores
Design Hotels has just started a great new feature for their city pages… destination-based video. The first ones that they have posted range from a guided street art walking tour of Shoreditch in London, to some really fantastic behind-the-scenes looks at some of the worlds´s coolest stores in Paris- Colette and l´Eclaireur.
Check out the first videos from New York, London, Paris, and Milan…
By the way, the videos are produced by an interesting start up called TheCrane.tv which is going to be one of the coolest online video magazines when it launches soon!
Filed under: Market Info | Tags: Fast Company, generation Y, millennials
Being a proud member of Generation Y, or my preferred label “millennials,” if is clear that we have made a major impact in the workplace. I was glad to see Lindsey Pollak wax lyrical about the joys of working with a member of the famed millennials… A few excerpts below:
1. She brings up things that never occur to me. As much as I study Gen Y and correspond with them frequently online, there’s something completely different about having a Gen Y-er physically in my presence. Since she’s fresh out of college, she brings a totally different perspective about my work and the world. By digging into her experiences and hearing those of her friends and peers, I widen my view of what’s important to her generation. For my business and many other businesses today, Gen Y is either our entire customer base or a large and ever-growing percentage of it. No matter what your business, gathering Gen Y input is not only a good idea; it’s become essential.
2. She’s just tech-ier. Much of my day-to-day work involves staying on top of Twitter and leading webinars on LinkedIn. Even with my relatively good technical knowledge, I sit mesmerized as my assistant zooms around on her Mac, flips through her Google docs and takes advantage of all the Internet has to offer. Gen Y has a natural facility with technology that even many of us active in the digital space cannot beat. I didn’t even know what I was missing in time-saving tech shortcuts until I watched my assistant.
3. She understands personal branding. As a speaker and writer, part of my job is selling myself and my skills. Gen Y understands the importance of personal branding, because they’ve been branding themselves since their middle school AIM profiles. In The Narcissism Epidemic: Living in the Age of Entitlement, psychologist Jean Twenge says Gen Y’s preoccupation with Facebook and other social networks demonstrates their high levels of narcissism. To me, it’s not so much narcissism as it is generationally-appropriate personal branding. Whether you’re a writer, speaker, entrepreneur or just working on your professional image, it’s important to have someone who intimately understands personal publicity on your team.
Filed under: Market Info, Stores | Tags: bankrupt, Barneys, Luxury, Recession
According to reports, Barneys (the NY-based luxe department store) could be making its second trip to bankrupcty court in the near future. Their other option would be a buy out from Canadian department store chain Holt and Renfrew. Daily Finance reports, “A spokeswoman said the Toronto-based chain would not comment on the report, which claimed that Holt & Renfrew had approached the hedge fund Perry Capital LLC about a deal. Perry Capital put together the $942 million deal in which Barney’s was sold in 2007. Holt & Refrew, a upscale chain akin to Bloomingdale’s, could be a good fit for Barney’s, which has struggled in the recession, like other high-priced stores with large apparel inventories.
“The bottom line is luxury is in the tank,” said Howard Davidowitz, chairman of Davidowitz & Associates, a New York-based retail consulting and investment banking firm.
“We’re in the biggest trade down effect in the history of retailing,” he said. The results posted this year by retailers including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and others all point to a steep fall in luxury retail due to the recession. “Barney’s is in a state of collapse, along with all the luxury retailers,” he said.”
Filed under: Market Info | Tags: big box, grocery stores, Recession, shopping malls, supermarket
Luxist had an intersting post today about how some shopping malls are dealing with the recession and subesequent departure of anchor department stores. Big box stores such as costco have been occupying some of these spaces while some malls are bringing in grocery stores to fil the voids.
“For the past year or so I’ve been a little obsessed with the state of shopping malls. Some stories I’ve read have said that the shopping mall is evolving into more of an outdoor shopping venue such as the Grove in Los Angeles, others have said that its disappearing entirely. One thing is for certain many malls have a lot of vacant space lately, partly because some of those anchor department stores are disappearing or consolidating. All that vacant space is forcing mall owners to get creative. One mall, the Westfield North County Shopping Mall in Escondido near San Diego, California may move a supermarket into the area that once housed a Robinsons-May store.
Big box retailers like Costco have also moved into some malls, taking over prized anchor spots vacated by department stores. Westfield already has a Gelson’s Market at Westfield Century City in Los Angeles and a Bristol Farms at Westfield San Francisco Centre and has found that overall mall sales have increased as the mall becomes one-stop shopping. There’s a hope that the big retailers will lift the sales of the smaller specialty stores in the same way that department stores did in the past.”
Well, while everybody has been buzzing about the peepshows in the new NYC Standard Hotel´s windows overlooking High Line, the curious minds at the NY Post did some investigative reporting to get to the bottom of the scandal… Turns out that the staff of the hotel are the masterminds behind this viral marketing sensation…
“We don’t discourage [the nudity]. In actual fact, we encourage it,’ a friendly bellhop told a pair of reporters as they checked in yesterday at The Standard, where randy guests cavort with abandon to the dismay — or delight — of parkgoers below. After the hotel opened late last year, the bellhop said, naked and semidressed staff members were encouraged to pose in front of the windows. The point, he said, was to create a buzz with the unexpected peep show. ‘One of the managers even got naked in a room, and filmed it — they were considering a live feed for the Web site,’ the staffer said. ‘She’s an exhibitionist, too.” (NY Post)
Filed under: Fashion, Market Info, Stores | Tags: abercrombie, discounts, four seasons, gossip girl, Hermes, Recession, Sales, Time
Time Magazine just published an article where they deem A&F the worst recession brand. Fashion and style points aside, the numbers actaully speak for themselves, “In the second quarter of 2009 alone, sales were down an eye-popping 30% across the company’s three name outlets: the flagship Abercrombie brand, which has 567 stores; Hollister, a 520-store teen chain; and Ruehl, a 29-store chain for young adults that Abercrombie shut down in June. Abercrombie & Fitch lost $26.7 million, which includes $24.4 million in charges associated with the closing of Ruehl, in the second quarter. During the same period in 2008, Abercrombie scored a $77.8 million profit.”
The article points out how A&F refused to lower prices or discount products like their cometitors for fear that it would cheapen the cachet of the brand. While this is not completely inforrect, they article also points out that it was simply unsuccessful especially when compared to other companies who follow the same logic like Hermes and Four Seasons.
Additionally, “they were the quintessential American prep brand, but the world changed on them,” says Edward Yruma, an equity research analyst at KeyBanc Capital Markets. “We’re living in the Gossip Girl era, where we’re seeing some funkier fashions.” Abercrombie’s classic look went out of style, and the company is just starting to sell dresses, which have performed well. “I’ve noticed that my kids aren’t open to anything Abercrombie these days,” says one mother of two teenage girls.
Filed under: Market Info | Tags: furniture, home prices, Recession, Retail, Shopping
A new US advertising campaign launched by Ogilvy and Mather is urging Americans to consider their homes as the focus of their emotional lives in addition to their financial lives. The $20million campaign states “things that fill our home also fulfills us” and has been seen in media such as Metropolitan Home and Elle Decor magazines. One ad includes a pricetag affixed to a couch saying: “22 percent cotton, 13 percent giggles, 15 percent group hugs, 11 percent afternoon naps.”
Behind the campaign is a bit of industry intrigue however according to Fast Company. “For decades the American furniture business has been based in High Point, North Carolina, where much of it was once (but no longer) manufactured. But over the past four years the momentum has shifted to the flamboyant World Market Center (above), a 1.3-million-square-foot showroom and exhibition space in Las Vegas. The Las Vegas group commissioned the ad campaign, which amounts to a declaration that it now speaks for the industry. “None of the individual companies has the ability to do something like this on their own so Las Vegas just stepped up and did it,” Shoulberg said. “They’re clearly trying to one-up High Point with this.””
Filed under: Market Info, Stores | Tags: 5th Ave, Apple, iPhone, iPod, New York
Apple, of course! Bloomburg reports that the Apple flagship on 5th Ave has surpassed rivals including Harry Winston and Tiffany´s to bethe top shop for this street. With sales reaching $350 million annually we are not surprise. Daily Finance reports, “There is good reason to be skeptical of the figure, if for no other reason than the number means that Apple is selling about $1 million worth of merchandise every single day of the year at the store. Put simply, $35,000 per square feet in gross sales is simply astronomical, even in New York.
On the other hand, Apple’s Fifth Avenue store may be unlike any other retail operation in the world, in terms of location, traffic, product, and sheer buzz. Madison Riley, a retail analyst at Kurt Salmon Associates, a global retail consultancy, told DailyFinance in an interview that while the number sounds extremely high, it is certainly possible.
“This is simply an amazing store,” Riley said. “I have never seen anything like it. The best I have heard was a Las Vegas specialty retailer that was operating at $12,000 [per square feet] and that is a number that I know is accurate.”
“Nevertheless,” Riley added, “Apple’s performance is extraordinary. It is indicative of a well positioned brand whose store value proposition is also clear and well executed. They offer strong product innovation and an highly engaging store experience where the customer in fully engaged before, during and after the sale.”
Filed under: Market Info | Tags: Airport, Alain de Botton, Heathrow, London, T5
Philosopher and writer Alain de Botton will be embarking on a one week experiment in “experiences…” What does that mean? Well, he will be living in the Heathrow Airport Terminal 5 observing, living, experiencing, and consuming all facets of life that exist there. To complete the experience, he will write his memoirs for the week and give away 10,000 copies of his book!
We have seen a somewhat simiarl iteration of this type of experiment with IKEA where they invited some people to live in their stores for a night. This is a really great way to truly understand the personality and “flow” of a place be it airport terminal, IKEA, or any other department store or shop. Though for most parties involved, this is purely a promotional exercise, but I think as brand experience gurus and practicioners, we can learn a lot from this.
I really love what de Botton says about the romance involved in the departure boards… so true!
Retail Refugees 